5 Day Picos de Europa Itinerary with Kids

Traveling with each of my kids alone is vastly different that traveling with them together.  A lot of times I like it better to be honest.  There is less refereeing to do, less competing interests, fewer blood-sugar crashes, etc.   It also provides a different kind of bonding opportunity when it’s one on one.  

So I try to peel each of them off for quick trips whenever I can.  One of my favorite father/son trips recently was a road trip to the impossibly beautiful Asturias region of Spain.  Asturias is a rugged green paradise, battered by the cold Cantabrian sea to the north, criss-crossed by trout-filled rivers, echoing with cow bells, and home to mountains you might expect to find in the Alps.  

It may as well exist in a different universe than Spain’s tourist-packed beaches to the South.  And to me and my son, it is heaven and one of our favorite places for hiking, fly fishing, and exploring.

Picos da Europa Map

Despite last minute planning, we got undeservedly lucky in terms of weather, festivals, fishing, and just stumbling into some breathtaking places.  But in the hopes of inspiring others to go, here are some of the highlights and suggestions on where to stay, what to do, and what not to miss.

Day 1 – Picos de Europa and the village in the sky

I had reserved a 4×4 but was given an electric mini Cooper with a shrug.  We made the best of it and drove fast from the Bilbao airport west along the coast towards Picos de Europa.  After a couple hours hugging a dramatic Big Sur-style coastline, you head inland, the road narrows and you start to climb.  

Bulnes

Picos de Europa is not the Sierras or the Rockies, it’s more of a place than a mountain range.  There is an incredible amount to see and do, but you can map out an itinerary that lets you experience a lot of it in less than a week.  Our target for the night was Bulnes, a remote mountain village that is only accessible via a steep 2 hour hike, or since 2001,  via a diagonal train called a funicular that cuts upward through 2,200 meters of rock.  

Stop in Covadonga

But on roadtrips in Asturias (and in Spain in general) you also just bump into amazing places you didn’t expect to find.  The first example of this was the Basilica de Santa Maria la Real de Covadonga.  It’s a Transylvania-style, pink hued, work of engineering and art that emerges out of mountain fog and actually takes your breath away.  

On the adjacent valley wall, there is chapel that is carved into a sheer rock wall and sits above a waterfall.  We climbed up and were surrounded by muttering nuns (my son still talks about that).

Have a Coffee in Cabrales

We wanted to get to Bulnes early enough to explore so we pushed on deeper into Picos de Europa.  On the way we passed through the gateway town of Arenas de Cabrales and ate thinly sliced beef in olive oil at a sidewalk bar.  We watched several people try to corral an enormous white horse that had gotten loose and was running in the street.  

Take the Funicular Up

From Cabrales the road winds up the Cares river canyon, crossing back and forth over bridges where we would slow down to peer over into the fish-filled eddies below.  We parked at the base of the funicular and bought 2 round trip tickets for about 20 bucks each.  We were the only ones heading up.  

When you get to the top it’s hard to overstate how dramatic the setting is.  You emerge into a high mountain canyon with towering monoliths on all sides with their tops obscured in clouds.  It is impossible for a village to exist.  And yet Bulnes is there with great places to stay and eat along a small mountain creek.

But the best part is if you walk past Bulnes the trail winds up to a separate area at the top that overlooks the valley below.  There you will find El Ceylon, an inn run by our new friend Alberto.  I highly suggest you stay and eat there.  And be sure to walk all the way to the end to have a beer at the easy-to-miss tavern and look back down towards the Cares valley.

Where to Stay: Don’t miss the El Ceylon Inn

Day 2 – The World Famous Cares trail

We do a lot of hiking so I had heard of the Cares trail and seen pictures in magazines.  It’s about 14 miles out and back and a lofty 4.8 on All Trails. It’s also now one of my favorite hikes on the planet with competition in places like Nepal and New Zealand.  

If you’re looking for an unforgettable hike in northern Spain, the Cares Trail in the Picos de Europa is a must. This route, often called the Ruta del Cares, is famous for its jaw-dropping views and a path that seems to hug the mountainside. Here’s a friendly itinerary guide to help you plan your adventure.

Starting Out in Poncebos

We started our journey in the small village of Poncebos. There’s a car park near the trailhead, which makes it easy to start your hike on a good note. From here, the trail winds its way along the Cares River, cutting through a deep, narrow gorge that has been carved out over millennia. The walk is like strolling through a natural sculpture gallery, with every twist and turn offering a new stunning vista.

How Long is the Hike?

The Cares Trail stretches about 11–12 kilometers (roughly 7 miles) one way. If you’re planning a round-trip hike, you should allow anywhere from 5 to 7 hours. Of course, if you like to stop for photos, take a break to soak in the views, or even have kids in tow, you might find yourself spending even more time on the trail. Although we didn’t do this, some hikers choose to do just one way and then catch a bus back from Caín, the village at the other end of the route.

Cares Trail Tips

• Crowds: The Cares Trail is extremely popular, especially in the summer. I recommend starting early in the day to avoid the busiest times.
• Path Conditions: While the trail is well-marked and maintained, parts of it can be narrow and a bit rocky. Make sure you have good hiking shoes and take your time on the trickier sections, especially if you have kids hiking with you.
• Weather Watch: We were told by many people at our accommodation that the trail is quite slippery when wet, so check the weather forecast before you head out.
• Preparation: Bring plenty of water and some snacks, as there aren’t any shops along the way.
• Dress Appropriately: The weather in the mountains changes quickly, so bring layers.

We scored it early spring and quiet, but it can be busy.  So time it well if you can.  It’s also a little sketchy with lots of options for your child to fall to their deaths, so it’s not a trail to mess around on.  But it was heaven.  Winding along the Cares gorge through tunnels, past goats, and ancient aqueducts with views that are sometimes hard to process.

Even though it’s a long hike, the experience is totally worth it. The combination of nature, history, and breathtaking views makes the Cares Trail one of the best day hikes in Spain.

 I wasn’t sure my nine year old was going to be able to do the 14 miles and I kept assessing throughout the day if we should turn back.  But he did it.  He was wobbly by the time we back, but happy and full of memories. 

Day 3 – Fuente Dé and the Gondola to Heaven

Stay in Sotres

After the Cares trail , we were wiped out and collapsed in a heap in the nearby village of Sotres.  It’s actually higher than Bulnes but you can drive to it.  We stayed at a casa rural with a very friendly host named Carlos.  

The place is officially called Casa El Canalizu La Abeya, but everyone just calls it Carlos’ place.  I highly recommend it.  It’s funky, but in a good way, and the setting is stunning.

Stop at Traviso

There is a road beyond Sotres that heads up to the roof of Picos de Europa.  It dead ends at the remote village of Traviso, which is WAY back in time and worth the drive.  

We wanted to get to the other side of Picos de Europa but you can’t really go that way. However, I could see on the map that there is a 4×4 road that connects across. I wasn’t sure if our mini could make it, but we decided to try.  We only got about a third of the way before it got too rocky and I decided we better turn back if I wanted our deposit back.  

But the road was incredible and we plan to go back with a proper vehicle.  There is no one up there except wild horses.  We ended up making the hour drive on paved roads to Fluent Dé.

Fluent De

Fluent Dé is at the end of a long dead-end road that loops around the south side of Picos de Europa.  The Parador de Fluent De sits right at the base of a stunning rock wall. They probably shouldn’t have been allowed to build it there.  It’s nice, but you come for the setting and the gondola which is adjacent to the hotel and takes you up to some of the best views in Spain.

Day 4 – Fly Fishing the Sella

Asturias is a world famous fly fishing destination and the world championships were held there in 2022. It’s hard to go wrong, but even so, in unfamiliar settings it’s always a good idea to book a guide if you can.  You learn a ton and almost always have better luck.  I highly recommend Asturias Mosca.  

When to Go Fly Fishing in Asturias

Carlos is from the region and knows everything there is to know about fishing its rivers.  He also brings amazing food.  We were chasing the large, beautiful speckled trout in the region, but the salmon fishing is supposed to be incredible between May and July.  

Where to stay in El Allende

That night we stayed at a one-of-kind casa rural at the top of a hill with view to the South of Picos de Europa.  The place is called La Montaña Mágica and it is just that.  The rooms have great fireplaces, porches that look towards Picos de Europa, and the place has a lot of animals and a great restaurant.

Day 5 – Easter on the Coast

Ribadessela

After all this naturing, as a semi-conscientious father I felt obliged to at least do a little culturing on the trip.  So we headed to the coast.  On this trip we weren’t going to make it to Oviedo or Gijon, Asturias’ proper cities, but the nearby small costal towns of Llanes and Ribadessela were perfect. Both are are painfully picturesque, Ribadessela, in particular.  

We happened to be there for Semana Santa, which is Spain’s week-long easter celebration.  In places like Sevilla, Semana Santa is a pilgrimage for tens of thousands and the city gets out of control. But in smaller towns you can experience some of the ritual processions without the crush of people.  

We’re not religious but I have a deep respect for the tradition and the history, and it was amazing to experience the holiday in a setting like that.

Here’s a quick list of must-do activities in Ribadessela to add some extra magic to your Picos adventure:

• Visit Tito Bustillo Cave: This famous prehistoric cave is a real gem. It’s filled with stunning Paleolithic art and offers guided tours that bring history to life.
• Relax at the Beach: Head over to Playa de Santa Marina to soak up some sun and enjoy a refreshing dip in the sea.
• Stroll Through Town: Wander the narrow, charming streets, pop into local shops, and try some authentic Asturian cider or fresh seafood in one of the town’s many cozy eateries.
• Take a Boat Ride: Whether it’s a cruise along the Sella River or a coastal tour, a boat ride gives you a whole new perspective on the rugged landscape.
• Join a Local Festival: If you’re around during the Descenso del Sella festival in August, it’s a lively event that you definitely won’t want to miss!

Picos da Europa Itinerary FAQ

How many days to hike Picos de Europa?

The ideal duration really depends on your goals and pace, but most travelers agree that while you can complete popular routes like the Cares Trail in a single day, a well-rounded experience of the Picos de Europa calls for at least 4 to 7 days.

This timeframe allows you to explore not only the famous trails but also to visit nearby attractions such as the Covadonga Lakes, charming mountain villages, and quieter, lesser-known paths that wind through the dramatic landscapes.

Many seasoned hikers plan a week-long itinerary so they have time to adjust for weather, take leisurely breaks for photography, and soak up local culture and cuisine in the small towns scattered around the park. 

What is the best time to visit Picos de Europa?

late spring (May to June) and early autumn (September to October) are the best times to visit Picos de Europa. During these shoulder seasons, the weather is generally mild and stable, offering comfortable conditions for hiking and outdoor activities without the overwhelming crowds of mid-summer.

In spring, the region bursts into bloom with wildflowers and fresh greenery, while autumn brings a spectacular display of fall colors that complement the rugged mountain scenery. Summer, though popular, can be hotter and more crowded, and winter typically brings heavy snow and colder temperatures that may limit access to some trails.

Can you do Picos de Europa without a car?

Yes, exploring Picos de Europa without a car is entirely feasible if you plan ahead and make use of the local public transport and organized tours. Major hubs like Cangas de Onís, Covadonga, and Potes are well connected by regional buses and even some train services, making it possible to reach key trailheads and attractions without driving.

While renting a car does offer extra flexibility—especially if you want to visit remote areas or travel on your own schedule—many visitors successfully navigate the region by coordinating bus schedules, joining guided hikes, or even renting bicycles for shorter trips between stops.

Where is the best base for hiking in Picos de Europa?

Choosing a base largely depends on which part of the park you plan to explore, but towns like Cangas de Onís and Potes are consistently recommended for their excellent location, amenities, and authentic local charm. Cangas de Onís is a popular starting point, offering easy access to several trailheads, including the renowned Covadonga Lakes and the Cares Trail, as well as a range of hotels, restaurants, and rental services.

Meanwhile, Potes is preferred by hikers who want to explore deeper into the central and western areas of the park, with its quaint streets, traditional eateries, and strong connections to local hiking routes. Both towns not only provide comfortable accommodation and delicious regional cuisine but also serve as cultural hubs where you can relax and refuel after long days on the trails.

Where to fly into for Picos de Europa?

For international visitors aiming to explore the Picos de Europa, the two most convenient airports are Santander Airport and Oviedo Airport. Santander, located along Spain’s northern coast, is well connected with a number of international and domestic flights and offers direct links via bus and shuttle services to the key towns surrounding the park.

Oviedo, the capital of Asturias, is another viable option with a steady flow of flights and good ground transportation options to reach the heart of the region. 

What is the highest point in the Picos de Europa?

The highest peak in the Picos de Europa is Torre de Cerredo, which soars to an impressive height of about 2,650 meters (8,694 feet) above sea level. This majestic summit is a magnet for experienced climbers and avid hikers who are drawn to its challenging ascent and the promise of panoramic views over the rugged landscape below.

Reaching Torre de Cerredo is not for the faint of heart, as it demands proper technical skills, preparation, and favorable weather conditions, but those who make the climb are rewarded with a sense of accomplishment and some of the most breathtaking vistas in northern Spain. 

What to pack for Picos de Europa?

Packing for a trip to the Picos de Europa means preparing for unpredictable mountain weather and rugged terrain, so your gear list should be as versatile as it is practical. Essential items include:

🏔 a pair of sturdy, waterproof hiking boots with excellent grip

🏔 layered clothing that can be easily adjusted to the shifting temperatures

🏔 a high-quality waterproof jacket to protect you against sudden showers

🏔 a reliable backpack stocked with ample water, energy-rich snacks

🏔 a first-aid kit

🏔 a detailed map or GPS device to help navigate the winding trails

🏔 trekking poles can be invaluable on steep or slippery sections

🏔 a hat and gloves

🏔 sunscreen

Final thoughts

I’ve been on lots of road trips but this was one of my favorite.  Both for the experiences themselves, and the opportunity to see them through my son’s eyes.  We plan to go back soon to surf, visit Oviedo, and do more fishing.  It’s been a few months since the trip and looking back on it now makes me appreciate what a gift the time with him was.  Time is precious.  So grab a kid and hit the road!

(Gotta work while you travel?  So do we!  Check out our posts on parenting as digital nomads and our digital nomad essential gear guide)